Butter and all-purpose flour, for soufflé mold

5 ounces frozen spinach; the washed stemmed leaves from 1 pound fresh large spinach; or 8 ounces fresh baby spinach

1 cup milk

3 egg yolks

1 tablespoon water

3 tablespoons all-purpose flour

1⁄2 teaspoon salt

1⁄8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 to 3 pinches of freshly grated nutmeg

4 egg whites

1⁄8 teaspoon cream of tartar

 

1. Preheat the oven to 475 F with the rack set in the lowest position. Liberally butter a 4-cup soufflé mold and then lightly dust with flour, tapping out any excess.

 

2. If using frozen spinach, cook according to package directions, then drain and refresh under cold running water. If using fresh spinach, drop the leaves into boiling water and cook 1 to 2 minutes. Drain and refresh under cold running water. Squeeze the spinach to extract as much moisture as possible and then finely chop. Set aside.

 

3. In a small saucepan, bring the milk to a boil over medium heat. While the milk is heating, whisk the egg yolks and water together in a small bowl. Add the 3 tablespoons flour to the yolks and blend until smooth and free of lumps. 

 

4. Before the milk boils, stir about 1⁄4 cup of it into the egg yolk mixture to thin it. When the remaining milk boils, add it to the egg yolk mixture and stir well.

 

5. Return the egg-milk mixture to the saucepan and whisk rapidly over medium-high heat, whisking the bottom and sides of the pan until the mixture thickens and boils, about 30 seconds. (Turning the pan as you whisk helps you easily reach all areas of the pan.) Continue to whisk vigorously for 1 minute while the soufflé base gently boils. It will become shiny and easier to stir.

 

6. Reduce the heat to medium and allow the soufflé base to simmer while you season it with the salt, pepper and nutmeg, then stir in the 

reserved spinach. Remove the pan from the heat and cover.

 

7. In a large bowl, beat the egg whites with the cream of tartar until stiff peaks form, about 3 minutes.

 

8. Pour the warm soufflé base into a large bowl. With a whisk, fold in one-third of the beaten eggs to lighten it. Some egg white will still be visible. With a rubber spatula, fold in the remaining egg whites. Stop folding as soon as the mixture is blended; a little egg white may still be visible.

 

9. Pour the soufflé mixture into the prepared mold, leveling the surface with your spatula. If any of the batter touches the rim of the mold, run your thumb around the rim to clean it off. 

 

10. Bake for 5 minutes. Lower the temperature to 425 F and bake for another 5 to 7 minutes. The soufflé should rise 11⁄2 to 2 inches above the mold and brown lightly on the top. The top may be slightly cracked, but this is not a problem. Serve immediately.

Author’s note: A finished soufflé will be firm around the outside edge and soft and creamy in the center. Since many Americans are used to soufflés that are considerably drier, they often feel they have made a mistake when they find the creamy center. If you prefer a drier center, allow the soufflé to remain in the oven for 3 to 4 minutes longer.  

 

Serves 2 or 4